![](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__5JGj9lY1yU/SeOfb5CMFDI/AAAAAAAAAKE/jFF671MlynY/s200/Lee+Valley+Shingle+Froe+No+Longer+Available.jpg)
For non-woodturning woodworking you'll need (at a minimum) a thickness planer (and sled) and a shingle froe. Dang, too bad that Lee Valley no longer sells the one pictured. It is the one I have. Well, a right or left handed hatchet (one side of head is completely in one plane, and the helve is offset accordingly) will do the job as well or better for small pieces of straight grained wood. I think a bandsaw (and sled) set up for resawing is really the way to go - will maximize the amount of nice boards you'll get from each piece of wood anyway.
![](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__5JGj9lY1yU/SedtdNYCmhI/AAAAAAAAAKU/h4hGteU_MCw/s200/figured+Buckthorn+from+Folks+backyard.jpg)
When I cut the tops off of a couple of holly trees (Ilex aquifolium) I saved the trunks, even though they were fairly small. I used a sled and my thickness planer to get flat sides, my jointer to get a good 90 degree angle and my table saw to start the cuts for quartering it. Lots of wet dust and shavings! Many people wouldn't want wood that wet anywhere near their fine woodworking tools. After I got the wood quartered, I squared it up some and used latex paint to seal the end grain and a couple of inches of each end and stickered it to allow good airflow. In a year or two I'll have some nice white wood. I've done the same with other wood, generally only when I can see that it will have good figure that I don't want to go to waste.
No comments:
Post a Comment